On a cool Saturday morning we strapped on our hiking shoes, packed up some minimal gear and set out for Wat Pha Lad, a mountainside site that is one of the lesser known temples. It’s a challenging but reasonable trek up a rocky trail. We knew we were looking for trail markers left by the monks, bits of their old robes, and I was relieved to see them on the path near the start.
I’m loving these funky trousers I bought here; the rayon cloth is lightweight, so you enjoy the breezes without getting bit up by mosquitoes. No one from Thailand seems to wear them out in public, it’s a tourist thing only. Ever since I noticed that yesterday I have had a sneaking suspicion they may actually be pajamas. If that’s the case then I don’t want to know. My fellow tourists and I are happy to wear them. (As a bonus, they fulfill the requirement that women must cover their knees while visiting temples.)
Along the way up and down we came across a dozen other people, including a few monks. The monks greeted us in English and we had a bit of conversation. These monks live in Chiang Mai, and were visiting the mountain retreat for the day.
As we climbed we started to hear and then see small tributaries off the mountaintop waterfall.
After perhaps 40 minutes of climbing and admiring the views we emerged into a sunlit clearing, and encountered a rickety woven bridge. Here was the entrance to the wat (temple grounds.) The hand railing offered some comfort but no actual protection.
Upon crossing the bridge and turning a corner, a broad expanse of rocky waterfall appears. You have to walk on the waterfall in order to access the rest of the temple grounds. As you turn corners the beauty of the place is breathtaking. Everywhere you see hand-carved stone statues and buildings, the product of years of human efforts and devotion, and all of this is set against the natural beauty of mountain, waterfalls, plant life and butterflies.
We wandered in awe for the longest time. In addition to the ever-present sights we were entertained by the presence of a film crew and actors in historical dress who were setting up to make a movie, apparently about bygone times in Thailand.
And then I realized I had made a mistake: I left our snacks back at the apartment. As soon as Matt said “I’m getting hungry” I realized that I was not just a bit hungry, I really needed to eat soon. We found a vendor stand that only sold tea and coffee drinks, and decide that our only choice was to buy the most sugary drink we could get and then make a fast retreat down the mountain, a challenging path where rushing and distraction could lead to bad things. I was pretty chagrined about my critical error, but we’d just have to cut this visit short. The clerk sold us our drinks, and then cheerfully gestured toward the tables full of food that were being laid out. The locals were hosting a birthday celebration for one of the monks. After the monks filled their alms bowls we would all be welcome to join in the luncheon, sharing in the vast amount of food that remained. Furthermore, to share in the monks’ meal provided you a special blessing, so please, stay and eat. I could hardly believe our luck!
The food wasn’t just good, it was really good, stews made of expensive ingredients with apparent care and affection for the monks. We sat on an old bench savoring every taste, and tears filled my eyes as I thought of how very lucky I am, how grateful I was to have this experience.
The crowd dispersed to almost nothing, so we thanked the locals who provided the feast and walked away to begin our descent. About 10 minutes later, off in the distance we heard them sing Happy Birthday to the monk. In English.
How wonderful! Thanks for sharing these wonderful photos and your experience.
I read once that to ensure orange-robed monks are not regarded as simply beggars, they ask for food /alms only in the morning. All return to their temple by noon and eat their daily big meal. Then for the rest of the day they take nothing.
So it is gauche to offer them money or food after 1 PM, but accepted in gratitude in the morning.
I’m not sure that’s true everywhere, or only in some countries/ sects.
Also that every young man must have a spell of being a monk around 12-14. The rich kids do the minimum of 6 weeks, but poorer kids linger 2-3 years for the food. It explains a lot about the young monks not seeming very religious.
Our friend here told us much of what you have said, so I think your information is correct. The midday meal is the last one, so that digestion doesn’t interfere with the afternoon meditations. I have heard of isolated acts of begging, but mostly the monks are given alms freely and they never need to ask for anything. Also, somewhere I read that a man is expected to be a monk at least once in his life in honor of his mother’s wishes, but after the training period he is free to leave when he feels the time is right. Just as we have many military veterans in the US, the Thai have many experienced ex-monks.
Enjoyed every bit of your colorful description, and each gorgeous photo!