Tet season in Nha Trang, Vietnam

We spent a full month in Nha Trang, enjoying the sea breezes, beaches, and abundant variety of restaurants. During our stay we were able to enjoy the Tet celebrations (Vietnamese New Year). Tet disrupts daily life and travel in Vietnam, but we were pleased to find that it was an enriching and rewarding time to be here.

In much of Vietnam Tet is a slack time in the life cycle of the farming communities, where 60% of the citizens are employed. It’s a time of renewal: fresh paint, new decor, and paying off all debts, a clean sweep for the coming year.

For a couple of weeks preceding Tet pop-up shops appear on the sidewalks along a busy street. Large potted trees full of flowers or fruit are a very popular item, and the trucks sit nearby with a crane onboard, ready to lift a tree onto the back of a motorbike, or go deliver a tree to a home.

Live apricot flowering trees for sale
Apricot trees
Carrying off kumquat fruit trees on motorbikes
Pomelo trees with real fruit still attached
4-5 foot tall dragon fruit cacti
Large blooming daisy planters from the countryside

Large decorative items are also a big-purchase item for the holiday, to adorn the buyer’s place for the long term. A home may have one or two of these items in the courtyard or foyer. Hotels and businesses often have more-extravagant versions.

Massive wood carvings
Elaborate stone feng shui piece for sale
lucky Money Toad carved from wood

These larger plants and artwork that can be lifted by two people cost about $150 (3 million dong) and upwards. The huge pieces will of course cost much more.

I also enjoyed seeing the smaller pieces for sale, with ingenious ways of introducing elements of springtime and wishes for good luck and prosperity.

Dyed pussy willows
Coconuts pressed into decorative shapes (Year of the Rooster)
Fruits grown in presses
Carved watermelons
Pussy willows (dyed) in flower vase
Decor made with garlic
Artificial peach flowers attached to branches
Fortune Cats and other good luck charms
Decorative hangings, about 40 cents each
Artificial flowers glued or wired onto “trees”
Tet decorations for sale

One week before Tet the city went silent, as the pervasive building boom took a rest. All of the construction workers retreated to their hometowns, mostly north of Nha Trang. On Tet Eve most but not all shops shut down for the upcoming 5 days, and quiet celebrations began in homes all around town. Rich snacks were prepared, and visiting time began. Small envelopes of “lucky money” were assembled for the children. There were no fireworks this year, out of respect for the locals who recently were killed in floods and landslides. Instead, the city was unusually peaceful.

Cashews with skins (remove them)
Dragon dancers go from door to door
Envelopes for Lucky Money (I bought some)
Dried fruits, candies and nuts for Tet snacking
Golden and green watermelons, traditional for Tet

As always, the ancestors were honored and remembered at this special time.

Ceremonial display of food and drink in a doorway
Selling spirit paper goods to be burned during Tet
Spirit money to be burned for Tet
Burning spirit money on the sidewalk

Traditionally you make specific visits as follows: on day 1 you visit father’s family; day 2, mother’s family, day 3, your teachers (who are especially honored in this culture); and days 4 and 5, your friends. In reality, many people keep days 1-3 for family, and then go on vacation from day 4 until the end of the next weekend. The beach was serene on days 1-3, but would soon be jam-packed with visitors from Saigon and China. We enjoyed being observers for Tet, especially during these early days.

Beachfront during Tet

3 thoughts on “Tet season in Nha Trang, Vietnam”

  1. How neat to be there for Tet! I had the happy luck to be in Hawaii for Halloween, which is the second biggest holiday there. Parades, incredible costumes, houses more decorated than seen at Christmas in Milwaukee. All the hairdressers work 16 hours for the two days prior, doing incredible hair and makeup for costumes.
    Being in an area for their big holiday lends insight into the culture that otherwise would be missed.

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