Escape to Da Lat, Vietnam

Vietnam is a charming country with an amazing variety of landscapes and cityscapes. Most of it is tropical, and crowded with motorbikes (mostly scooters) and buses and pedestrians. When you want a mountain getaway on the south end of Vietnam you go to Da Lat. The French planned out this hideaway, and its Swiss/French ambience is still apparent.

Temples are not as numerous here as in other Asian locales, but some of them are beautifully situated among these hills.

Flowering bush at Trúc Lâm Temple
Clever, patient topiary work at Trúc Lâm Temple
view from the overhead tram at Trúc Lâm Temple

While it is known as “City of eternal spring”, many also call it the “City of flowers”, not solely because of the flower-strewn avenues, but also since it is a major source for florists in Vietnam and overseas as well. The Da Lat Flower Park is a popular site for strolling (and taking selfies). There you will find an associated reference to the only well-known wine of Vietnam. If you go I recommend you replicate this photo, using your own model of course.

Happiness is…
Foxglove
Tending the gardens in Da Lat, Vietnam

If you spend any time in southern Vietnam you will eventually hear of the Easy Rider groups. Your personal driver sets you on the back of his motorcycle and then you’re off to visit the countryside, up and down the mountain roads. Our trip lasted 6 hours, and included 9 stops to see sights and learn about the local life. It’s an exhilarating ride, and once we had done it we were jonesing to do another one.

Matt and his driver at the flower farm
A perfect Gerbera, ready to harvest
Harvested flowers preparing for shipment

At a local rice wine manufacturer we pulled samples of hard liquor straight from the spigot as it underwent distilling processes.

Sampling the distilled rice wine from the spigot

We visited a small silk factory where the entire cycle from caterpillar to silk scarf was on view within the site.

Live silkworm with a female and male cocoon (males are bigger)
Soaking the silk cocoons in hot water to unwind the threads

Regrettably, the silkworms are killed in the process.

Dead silkworms are tasty with lemongrass

Nearby we visited a beautiful Chinese Buddhist pagoda. The Budai loomed large over the hillside. His nickname is Laughing Buddha, although he is no relation to Gautama Buddha.

Laughing Buddha at at Linh An Pagoda, Da Lat
Statue at Linh An Pagoda

Near the end of our trip we toured the Me Linh Coffee Garden, to observe the production of “weasel coffee” (as it’s called in Vietnam), AKA civet coffee. Or, as our guide called it, sh*t coffee. Here the pampered but caged “pets” dine on a never-ending supply of coffee berries, and then (ahem) produce coffee beans out the other end. It’s one of the most expensive coffees in the world, and if you buy it elsewhere it may well be faked. Only here at the source can you be reasonably assured that you’re getting the real thing.

Civet cat or weasel arranges to take a snooze (Me Linh Coffee Garden)

At this farm they grow three varieties of beans for the weasels: Moka, Cherry, and Arabica. You can buy a cup of coffee for $2.60 US, or get the roasted beans for $80 a pound (400,000 VND per 100 grams). If the beans are sourced in the wild and then exported for sale they go for about $180 a pound. Many beans don’t get processed by the weasels, so you can also buy those here at a very reduced price.

We decided to try the Moka and Cherry, after they persuaded us that the Arabica would taste more sour. The Moka was their most popular product, but we found it bitter and we preferred the Cherry. It tasted rich and delicious with fresh whole milk and a light dusting of sugar. The lovely view of the valley enhanced the experience.

Civet cat or weasel coffee at Me Linh Coffee Garden, Da Lat

We lingered there enjoying the springtime air, as the rain clouds held at bay. I admired a couples’ little puppy, and to my surprise the man plopped the little pup right into my arms. It nuzzled against me and drooped its eyelids, and I fell in love with this place.

Someone handed me this dog and now I won’t give it back

4 thoughts on “Escape to Da Lat, Vietnam”

  1. Wonderful! I love your photos so much. I wish we could see if Matt really ate that silkworm! Teeth crunching, Matt!
    I forwarded the post to Chapin, who is a coffee aficionado and is intrigued by the through-the-intestinal-tract coffees.

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