Religious sites – Boomer Away

Escape to Da Lat, Vietnam

Vietnam is a charming country with an amazing variety of landscapes and cityscapes. Most of it is tropical, and crowded with motorbikes (mostly scooters) and buses and pedestrians. When you want a mountain getaway on the south end of Vietnam you go to Da Lat. The French planned out this hideaway, and its Swiss/French ambience is still apparent.

Temples are not as numerous here as in other Asian locales, but some of them are beautifully situated among these hills.

Clever, patient topiary work at Trúc Lâm Temple

view from the overhead tram at Trúc Lâm Temple

While it is known as “City of eternal spring”, many also call it the “City of flowers”, not solely because of the flower-strewn avenues, but also since it is a major source for florists in Vietnam and overseas as well. The Da Lat Flower Park is a popular site for strolling (and taking selfies). There you will find an associated reference to the only well-known wine of Vietnam. If you go I recommend you replicate this photo, using your own model of course.

If you spend any time in southern Vietnam you will eventually hear of the Easy Rider groups. Your personal driver sets you on the back of his motorcycle and then you’re off to visit the countryside, up and down the mountain roads. Our trip lasted 6 hours, and included 9 stops to see sights and learn about the local life. It’s an exhilarating ride, and once we had done it we were jonesing to do another one.

Harvested flowers preparing for shipment

At a local rice wine manufacturer we pulled samples of hard liquor straight from the spigot as it underwent distilling processes.

Sampling the distilled rice wine from the spigot

We visited a small silk factory where the entire cycle from caterpillar to silk scarf was on view within the site.

Live silkworm with a female and male cocoon (males are bigger)

Soaking the silk cocoons in hot water to unwind the threads

Regrettably, the silkworms are killed in the process.

Dead silkworms are tasty with lemongrass

Nearby we visited a beautiful Chinese Buddhist pagoda. The Budai loomed large over the hillside. His nickname is Laughing Buddha, although he is no relation to Gautama Buddha.

Laughing Buddha at at Linh An Pagoda, Da Lat

Near the end of our trip we toured the Me Linh Coffee Garden, to observe the production of “weasel coffee” (as it’s called in Vietnam), AKA civet coffee. Or, as our guide called it, sh*t coffee. Here the pampered but caged “pets” dine on a never-ending supply of coffee berries, and then (ahem) produce coffee beans out the other end. It’s one of the most expensive coffees in the world, and if you buy it elsewhere it may well be faked. Only here at the source can you be reasonably assured that you’re getting the real thing.

Civet cat or weasel arranges to take a snooze (Me Linh Coffee Garden)

At this farm they grow three varieties of beans for the weasels: Moka, Cherry, and Arabica. You can buy a cup of coffee for $2.60 US, or get the roasted beans for $80 a pound (400,000 VND per 100 grams). If the beans are sourced in the wild and then exported for sale they go for about $180 a pound. Many beans don’t get processed by the weasels, so you can also buy those here at a very reduced price.

We decided to try the Moka and Cherry, after they persuaded us that the Arabica would taste more sour. The Moka was their most popular product, but we found it bitter and we preferred the Cherry. It tasted rich and delicious with fresh whole milk and a light dusting of sugar. The lovely view of the valley enhanced the experience.

Civet cat or weasel coffee at Me Linh Coffee Garden, Da Lat

We lingered there enjoying the springtime air, as the rain clouds held at bay. I admired a couples’ little puppy, and to my surprise the man plopped the little pup right into my arms. It nuzzled against me and drooped its eyelids, and I fell in love with this place.

Someone handed me this dog and now I won’t give it back

The Silver Temples of Chiang Mai

Hidden away in unassuming side streets you may chance upon two extraordinary “silver” temples gleaming in the sun: Wat Sri Suphan, and nearby, Wat Muen San. Starting at Sri Suphan, you can observe the incredibly laborious work that goes into hand-forming the tin alloy sheets into detailed art. If you have time you can make a simple bracelet, though you must set aside 3 hours for even this tiny piece.

Early stages of making a ceremonial panel in tin

Early stages of a ceremonial panel; stretching the metal and then adding detail

Intermediate stage, making a ceremonial panel in tin

A layer of molten rubber is applied to the back, to allow for gradual stretching of the tin as it is hammered from the backside.

Melting rubber for a backboard, used in hammering tin

As you wander the temple grounds you will often come across one of the ever-present temple dogs.

If you’re in a hurry you can get through the temple grounds in a half hour. However, the few other visitors and I walked in slow motion, meditating on the beauty of the handwork. Here I find a sense of peace that is usually missing in our daily lives.

Some of the artwork is enhanced with actual silver or gold.

The temple is adjacent to a children’s school, and the students were at play on the grounds. Two girls slipped away from the raucous crowd of soccer players, and played in a ceremonial cart.

Schoolgirls at play on a ceremonial float in storage, Wat Sri Suphan

It took us a little searching to find Wat Muen San, and when we arrived we found that we were the only people there except for a trio of brick masons at work. Here was further beauty, worthy of an art gallery.

Walking down the back lanes and visiting these two temples made for a serene half-day of sightseeing. I am grateful to the unsung artists for their dedication to their calling.

Hoi An, the old and new

When we planned our trip to Vietnam I wasn’t sure which cities to visit. Hanoi and Saigon are the big-name cities, but for a beautiful experience of the real Vietnam, the number one place to go is Hoi An. Its Ancient Town section is yet another stop at a UNESCO World Heritage Site; there are 8 in Vietnam.

Most of the silk lanterns made in Vietnam are made right here. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are also hand-painted.

The city is famous for its Vietnamese lantern makers

The tailors of Hoi An are legendary, and the streets are full of options. Our esteemed tour group, Intrepid Travel, recommended Blue Eye Tailors for mid-range prices, or A Dong Silk Tailors, the shop which fitted up the guys on the episode of Top Gear- Vietnam. If you can envision an item, pull up an image from the Internet or find one in their books, they will measure you up and construct the item in one day. Silk, cotton blend or leather items are popular.

Hoi An’s famous tailors use garish clothes to draw attention

Hoi An’s Ancient Town is a well-preserved example of early port cities along the seacoast.

Brides and grooms come to Hoi An for unique photos

Here and in other places in southeast Asia you can take cooking classes. We were fortunate to be tutored by Chef Hai, who was a strict but educational taskmaster.

Cooking class with the owner at Green Mango

On the second day we elected to go exploring on our own. The hotel staff pointed out a Buddhist pagoda very close by, and as it turned out we were the only tourists there among a very small staff of monks. The religious sites here in Asia are often very beautiful, and here we strolled in peaceful silence, enjoying the ambience of this special place.

Lady Buddha, Quan Am, with a cleansing vase

Details from a garden wall at the pagoda

Two nights here was not enough, and we didn’t even get to see the beaches. I would love to return here for more exploration.

Trekking to the monks’ mountain retreat

On a cool Saturday morning we strapped on our hiking shoes, packed up some minimal gear and set out for Wat Pha Lad, a mountainside site that is one of the lesser known temples. It’s a challenging but reasonable trek up a rocky trail. We knew we were looking for trail markers left by the monks, bits of their old robes, and I was relieved to see them on the path near the start.

Monks' trail markers — Monks’ trail markers

Bits of monks' robes mark the trail — Bits of monks’ robes mark the trail

I’m loving these funky trousers I bought here; the rayon cloth is lightweight, so you enjoy the breezes without getting bit up by mosquitoes. No one from Thailand seems to wear them out in public, it’s a tourist thing only. Ever since I noticed that yesterday I have had a sneaking suspicion they may actually be pajamas. If that’s the case then I don’t want to know. My fellow tourists and I are happy to wear them. (As a bonus, they fulfill the requirement that women must cover their knees while visiting temples.)

Along the way up and down we came across a dozen other people, including a few monks. The monks greeted us in English and we had a bit of conversation. These monks live in Chiang Mai, and were visiting the mountain retreat for the day.

We stopped to chat with some monks on the trail

As we climbed we started to hear and then see small tributaries off the mountaintop waterfall.

After perhaps 40 minutes of climbing and admiring the views we emerged into a sunlit clearing, and encountered a rickety woven bridge. Here was the entrance to the wat (temple grounds.) The hand railing offered some comfort but no actual protection.

Upon crossing the bridge and turning a corner, a broad expanse of rocky waterfall appears. You have to walk on the waterfall in order to access the rest of the temple grounds. As you turn corners the beauty of the place is breathtaking. Everywhere you see hand-carved stone statues and buildings, the product of years of human efforts and devotion, and all of this is set against the natural beauty of mountain, waterfalls, plant life and butterflies.

Matt observing a butterfly on the waterfall — Matt filming a butterfly on the waterfall

Majestic statue, with a statue of a tiny human baby at its feet

We wandered in awe for the longest time. In addition to the ever-present sights we were entertained by the presence of a film crew and actors in historical dress who were setting up to make a movie, apparently about bygone times in Thailand.

And then I realized I had made a mistake: I left our snacks back at the apartment. As soon as Matt said “I’m getting hungry” I realized that I was not just a bit hungry, I really needed to eat soon. We found a vendor stand that only sold tea and coffee drinks, and decide that our only choice was to buy the most sugary drink we could get and then make a fast retreat down the mountain, a challenging path where rushing and distraction could lead to bad things. I was pretty chagrined about my critical error, but we’d just have to cut this visit short. The clerk sold us our drinks, and then cheerfully gestured toward the tables full of food that were being laid out. The locals were hosting a birthday celebration for one of the monks. After the monks filled their alms bowls we would all be welcome to join in the luncheon, sharing in the vast amount of food that remained. Furthermore, to share in the monks’ meal provided you a special blessing, so please, stay and eat. I could hardly believe our luck!

Monks put food in their alms bowls for lunch

Monks pray before lunch, under the holy tree

Monk's birthday celebration — Monk’s birthday celebration; stews of crab, pork, and clams

Actors near the set, sharing in the monks' luncheon — Actors near the set, sharing in the monks’ luncheon

The food wasn’t just good, it was really good, stews made of expensive ingredients with apparent care and affection for the monks. We sat on an old bench savoring every taste, and tears filled my eyes as I thought of how very lucky I am, how grateful I was to have this experience.

The crowd dispersed to almost nothing, so we thanked the locals who provided the feast and walked away to begin our descent. About 10 minutes later, off in the distance we heard them sing Happy Birthday to the monk. In English.

Festival lights in Chiang Mai

The Loy Krathong festival offers such a target-rich environment for photography, it’s impossible to fit it all into one tour plan (or one blog post.) With all the focus on the floating and flying lanterns, the rest of the scenery could be overlooked. Here’s a photo journal of some of the other beautiful highlights during the 3-day celebration.

Candlelit lanterns at Three Kings Monument

Candlelit lanterns at Three Kings Monument, with full moon

Civilians arrange candles at Three Kings Monument

Honoring King Bhumibol during the mourning period, at Three Kings Monument

Electric lanterns at Three Kings Monument

Matt and Deb, across the street from the Three Kings monument

Children arrange candles at Three Kings Monument

A monk sells candles at Wat Inthakhin temple

Viharn (Assembly Hall) at Wat Inthakhin temple, with hanging lanterns for the Loy Krathong festival