Nature – Page 2 – Boomer Away

Trip to the mountains above Chiang Mai

On Monday morning we hired a private tour company to take us trekking in the mountains southwest of Chiang Mai. On the agenda: climbing, waterfalls, Karen hill tribe people, and elephants.

Along the way we stopped at a rustic market to acquire some lunch; this would be shared with our 3 guides and the Karen family we were going to meet.

Meat market; slow turning motors carrying baggies keep the flies off — Meat market; slow turning motors carrying baggies to shoo the flies off

As we ascended the mountainside we observed a lot of water-laden farms. It’s harvest season right now, so the land is brownish and not very green. The weather was warm, around 83 degrees F, but some clouds kept the sun from beating down on us.

We passed some touristic spots where people were visiting and/or riding elephants. There were also places to ride bamboo rafts, but it’s off season for this pursuit, and the rafts sat empty by the riversides. At our destination we disembarked along with 2 of the guides, loaded up backpacks and began a serious trek up and down the mountainsides.

The guides stopped to examine every mushroom we encountered. Some of them are apparently tasty and worth money, but almost everything we found was judged to be “very bad” and “kill you”.

After about 2 hours of hiking we were rewarded with one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen. We lingered here in the cool mist, entirely alone with this site all to ourselves. We sat on a stone ridge and one of our guides shared with us his own lunch, some bread he makes at his “day job” as a chef. I was surprised that we saw no animal life. Supposedly there are wild pigs and monkeys in this area, and even some deer, but they weren’t showing up to enjoy the waterfall today. Overhunting has some bearing on this, according to our guides. So, the waterfall was ours. It’s always interesting how the world sounds when you get so far away from other humans that there are no motors, no outside noises, just you and nature.

After a peaceful rest that was entirely too short we started trekking uphill again. We heard the rattling of wooden and metal cow bells, and as we broke into a clearing we encountered a Karen woman harvesting rice from her paddies, with her cows munching away nearby. She was winnowing the rice and piling up the grains on plastic sheets, then packing the rice into large bags. Her only helper at this point was a dog named Dulu, who decided that we were more interesting than she was. Dulu became our faithful companion for the rest of the day, running nimbly up and down the ridges while we trudged along at a comparative snail’s pace.

We were walking along trails that were marked with tire tracks. If you heard a motor noise you all had to clear off the path quickly, because the oncoming motorbike would not be expecting people on these trails and you didn’t want to meet one head-on. Sometimes you heard an odd whirring noise, and that was a motorbike coming down the hill under gravity power, motor turned off. The motorbikes were carrying rice and vegetables up and down from the paddies.

At last we came into another clearing and found the home of the Karen family. Here was our lunch stop and a chance to rest and play a bit.

Dinner from the market, lunchtime at the Karen tribe family farm

Karen tribal family in front of their home

Cook hut and sleeping quarters for tourists, Karen tribe

Farmers carrying a pumpkin and rice down the dirt road

By the time we finished eating it was 4 PM and we had to get going. You don’t want to be negotiating these steep paths in the dark, and nightfall comes at 6 PM. We had 1.5 hours of trekking still to go.

Matt and Deb in the rice paddies, Mae Win, Thailand

On the way back to the city we stopped at an elephant camp. This is a no-ride camp, widely regarded as one of the humane ones. It was late in the day so the mother and baby were already in their pen for the night.

Mama elephant grabs the canes out of Deb's hands — Mama elephant grabs the canes out of Deb’s hands

There is a lot of controversy about elephant tourism, and Chiang Mai is a center for this activity. You can’t avoid these conversations here. Many sites still allow and encourage tourists to ride on the elephants, either bareback or in metal boxes perched on top of the elephants. Some also employ rough metal hooks to prod or beat the elephants into submission. Almost all camps chain the elephants at night.

Elephant at Chiang Mai Elephant Tours, Mae Win, Thailand

After feeding these elephants I have to say that they are stunningly strong and amazingly big. Yes, I knew that intellectually, but there is no substitute for the sensation you get when a 6 month old elephant grabs your arm and takes control of it for even a few seconds. You are not in control. If he wants to keep your arm, he’s keeping it. I’ve seen a local advertising photo of one of these babies laying on top of a tourist, and the tourist seems to be laughing, but if it was me I’d be wondering how many ribs were going to be broken. That is a big, powerful baby. And then the mama? Respect the mama, she’s large and in charge. There is no way for her to have a real semblance of freedom; there are no cages big enough to keep her captive, so she must be chained at the ankle for hours at a time, on a relatively short chain. The chain bothers me more than anything. I was honored to be able to look these sentient creatures in the eye and have a few long minutes to interact with them. But I have to admit, I have qualms about how humans capitalize on their captivity. There may be a domesticated relationship between the mahout (trainer) and the elephant, but I am not yet convinced that it’s a mutually beneficial one.

Trekking to the monks’ mountain retreat

On a cool Saturday morning we strapped on our hiking shoes, packed up some minimal gear and set out for Wat Pha Lad, a mountainside site that is one of the lesser known temples. It’s a challenging but reasonable trek up a rocky trail. We knew we were looking for trail markers left by the monks, bits of their old robes, and I was relieved to see them on the path near the start.

Monks' trail markers — Monks’ trail markers

Bits of monks' robes mark the trail — Bits of monks’ robes mark the trail

I’m loving these funky trousers I bought here; the rayon cloth is lightweight, so you enjoy the breezes without getting bit up by mosquitoes. No one from Thailand seems to wear them out in public, it’s a tourist thing only. Ever since I noticed that yesterday I have had a sneaking suspicion they may actually be pajamas. If that’s the case then I don’t want to know. My fellow tourists and I are happy to wear them. (As a bonus, they fulfill the requirement that women must cover their knees while visiting temples.)

Along the way up and down we came across a dozen other people, including a few monks. The monks greeted us in English and we had a bit of conversation. These monks live in Chiang Mai, and were visiting the mountain retreat for the day.

We stopped to chat with some monks on the trail

As we climbed we started to hear and then see small tributaries off the mountaintop waterfall.

After perhaps 40 minutes of climbing and admiring the views we emerged into a sunlit clearing, and encountered a rickety woven bridge. Here was the entrance to the wat (temple grounds.) The hand railing offered some comfort but no actual protection.

Upon crossing the bridge and turning a corner, a broad expanse of rocky waterfall appears. You have to walk on the waterfall in order to access the rest of the temple grounds. As you turn corners the beauty of the place is breathtaking. Everywhere you see hand-carved stone statues and buildings, the product of years of human efforts and devotion, and all of this is set against the natural beauty of mountain, waterfalls, plant life and butterflies.

Matt observing a butterfly on the waterfall — Matt filming a butterfly on the waterfall

Majestic statue, with a statue of a tiny human baby at its feet

We wandered in awe for the longest time. In addition to the ever-present sights we were entertained by the presence of a film crew and actors in historical dress who were setting up to make a movie, apparently about bygone times in Thailand.

And then I realized I had made a mistake: I left our snacks back at the apartment. As soon as Matt said “I’m getting hungry” I realized that I was not just a bit hungry, I really needed to eat soon. We found a vendor stand that only sold tea and coffee drinks, and decide that our only choice was to buy the most sugary drink we could get and then make a fast retreat down the mountain, a challenging path where rushing and distraction could lead to bad things. I was pretty chagrined about my critical error, but we’d just have to cut this visit short. The clerk sold us our drinks, and then cheerfully gestured toward the tables full of food that were being laid out. The locals were hosting a birthday celebration for one of the monks. After the monks filled their alms bowls we would all be welcome to join in the luncheon, sharing in the vast amount of food that remained. Furthermore, to share in the monks’ meal provided you a special blessing, so please, stay and eat. I could hardly believe our luck!

Monks put food in their alms bowls for lunch

Monks pray before lunch, under the holy tree

Monk's birthday celebration — Monk’s birthday celebration; stews of crab, pork, and clams

Actors near the set, sharing in the monks' luncheon — Actors near the set, sharing in the monks’ luncheon

The food wasn’t just good, it was really good, stews made of expensive ingredients with apparent care and affection for the monks. We sat on an old bench savoring every taste, and tears filled my eyes as I thought of how very lucky I am, how grateful I was to have this experience.

The crowd dispersed to almost nothing, so we thanked the locals who provided the feast and walked away to begin our descent. About 10 minutes later, off in the distance we heard them sing Happy Birthday to the monk. In English.

Just a random day in Mexico

This is an orphaned draft of a blog post that I started writing in February 2016. I’ve decided to release it with minor modifications in November.

Every day is so full of new things, and there is no time to write the blogs I have planned. Yesterday we were supposed to experience our first rain day of the entire trip, but we had just one thunderclap and a few drops of rain. So we took a taxi to the top of the extinct volcano, and then walked all the way down. It was beautiful to see almost all of Lake Patzcuaro from such a height. On the way down we saw peacocks in a private yard, and kitties, and drug addicts in the square. And we had tacos made from cueritos (skin) at the carnitas place that sells out in one hour flat every single day. So many stories to tell! The new experiences come in torrents and dribbles as we make our way across new lands.

View from the top of the extinct volcano, over Lake Patzcuaro

It’s been very dry and you can see how parched is the landscape. It looks like some farmers have had burn-offs, maybe intentional. Pretty soon the rains will come and the lands will green up again. In the meantime the berry farmers are going great, with all types of berries growing in sheet-plastic greenhouses across the countryside. On our walk down the volcano we saw wilderness, dry farmers’ fields, and evidence that horses or donkeys had taken these paths. The road was rough and rocky, with the original fist-sized stones exposed and jumbled, but the foot paths alongside were a doable challenge.

Private yard with peacock (the albino one on the left would not pose for me)

View from Patzcuaro back up the volcano we had descended

Kittens in an open doorway abutting the sidewalk

Around 1540 the benevolent priest Vasco de Quiroga brought artisans from Spain to install a unique handcraft industry in each of the local indigenous communities, assuring that they had ongoing ways of making a living without competing directly against each other. We have enjoyed seeing the artwork and I regret that we can’t take much of it home with us.

Indigenous clay pot, about 24" tall — Indigenous clay pot, about 24″ tall

Camelot, a magical place

Sometimes, when you are really lucky, you are unexpectedly dropped into paradise. The city of Ajijic and its sister city, Lake Chapala were not on our agenda for this trip. We planned to either bypass Guadalajara or stay in it briefly, on our way from the central highlands of Mexico to the coast at Puerto Vallarta. Our readings had shown that nearby Ajijic was a popular retirement site for Americans, and I was all for turning up my nose at anything that was Popular with Americans. But my options for home stays in Guad and nearby Tequila didn’t pan out, and there was an alluring rental on AirBNB in Ajijic: an upscale hacienda with a large pool and decks overlooking the lake and mountains, and handmade breakfasts included. It seemed a breath of fresh air after weeks spent in populous areas.

Ajijic (ah-hee-heek) reportedly has a fine climate all year, with no need for air conditioning or heat. Our host Alison told us that the rain generally stops around sunrise, reminding us both of the old song “Camelot”:

But in Camelot, Camelot
That’s how conditions are.
The rain may never fall till after sundown.
By eight, the morning fog must disappear.

There are small nursing homes here where people with dementia can live for less than $1,300 a month. It’s a pleasant option in a pleasant city, vs. paying $70K per year in the US.

On our first full day Alison took us to the weekly organic market. Here we started to see the amount of gringos living here, enjoying the great weather and economical living. I felt my spirits rise, just like they do whenever I go to the farmers’ market in Waukesha. The food was a feast for the eyes, and we bought a little for the tastebuds too.

Ajijic organic market day, making cold chocolate drinks with a molinillo

I really enjoyed chatting with the cacao vendor. Back home I volunteer at the Milwaukee Public Museum, where I explain the history and biology of cacao/chocolate, but this was my first time to actually use the wooden molinillo to froth up the chocolate drink, and grind the cacao beans on the stone metate. The iced cocoa drink was extra-delicious, and I vow to start making it at home. This recipe might do the trick, without starting from scratch.

Tasty empanadas made a light lunch, 18 pesos ($1)

Pull-apart fruit, sweet nuggets given as samples

On the next day we went to the more-traditional weekly street market, where natives and gringos alike shopped for the week’s pick of fresh fruit, vegetables and meat. Coconut juice is a popular item, with a truckload to be consumed on this market day.

We went for a walk through town and down to Lake Chapala. We were excited to see a wintering site of the American White Pelican, which breeds back home in Oshkosh and Fond du Lac (and upwards into Canada as well.)

Ajijic from Lake Chapala to the Sierra Madre mountains

A walk through the city provided so many visual delights. Instead of the pervasive graffiti we see elsewhere, we found many beautiful wall murals and works of art.

The top of this building has what some call a “baby bottle” tower, a common feature in this area.

In Mexico most of the sidewalks are narrow and the walls of the houses go right up to the sidewalk; there are no lawns. The homes are hidden behind these walls, and what might they contain? Lavish digs, or simple concrete bunkers? Our host wrote 2 books showing some of the glorious homes that are hidden behind these walls. You’ll find a sample here. It seems there is ample work here for gifted architects and interior designers.

Elizabeth Taylor used to hang out here on the lakefront

We went to the Peacock Garden restaurant for early dinner, and my salmon dijon sandwich was complemented by the lovely scenery. A couple at the nearby table shared with us that they have rented a home in downtown for $500 per month, and the furnishings were easily affordable. The Lake Chapala Society is right nearby, offering social opportunities and chances to volunteer and enrich the local society as well. They also offer an English language lending library, which can be a bonus for book lovers.

A couple of nights we walked to the the Fast and Good Tapas Restaurant, a little streetside place. Each tapas or small glass of wine cost 20 pesos, about $1.10. The waiter was also the chef, and he was indeed fast, and the food was really good. On another day we went to the Sunrise restaurant for rib dinners at 90 pesos, about $5. Despite the upscale city locale you can still eat inexpensively.

Every night we enjoyed the sunset over the Sierra Madre mountains. It’s an alluring place, and deserves consideration as a snowbird retirement spot.

New life: birth on the beach

Today is a blustery day on the ocean, with high waves and intermittent rains. Here in Puerto Vallarta we often see very large, majestic frigate birds flying over the coast. They are opportunistic eaters, and this morning Matt saw one attack a smaller bird, force the bird to disgorge the fish it had just scooped up, and then the frigate bird took the fish and flew off. Frigate birds have their own frailties: if they fall into the sea they can’t take off, and will likely die there. (Our local divemaster saved one recently; click on the link to see the Facebook post by Banderas Scuba on Dec. 19 2015.) This afternoon we noticed an exceptional number of these birds circling our beach, 7 or more, coasting into the wind like it was easy, and they were not veering away from our area. We walked down to watch them, and a man told us the frigates were here for the turtles.

Turtles?

Yes, he said and gestured down the beach about 20 yards. There we found a group of hotel employees clustered around a hole in the sand. One man was armpit deep into a sand hole, and pulling out some things.

As we walked up we saw him pull out and discard a misshapen lump, which as it turned out, was a dead turtle egg. Someone had seen a live turtle emerge from the sand, and the staff came out to save them. Now the last 2 of the turtles were being deposited into a bucket. It seems that the frigate birds had also seen the baby emerge, and they were waiting to take advantage of the free meal.

In the bucket were 81 newly hatched loggerhead turtles, vigorously flopping around and trying to figure out how to get to the sea. One was pronounced dead, and we all sighed a bit as he was set aside; but then he rallied to show a little movement, and soon it was full on hey-I’m-not-dead-yet, so he went in the bucket with the others. They were all covered in the fine sand that they were born in, not yet washed clean by the ocean.

81 baby turtles — 81 baby loggerhead turtles

The staff had called for local officials to take the turtles away, so they could be protected and set free. No frigate birds were fed today.

Only 10 of us got to see this, so we felt really fortunate to be a part of this birthing ceremony. Live long and prosper, little ones!