Deb – Page 2 – Boomer Away

How to enjoy nasi kandar

If you’re on the hunt for incredible food that you’ve never had before, you must get yourself to Penang, Malaysia. Other destinations in southeast Asia have their own allures, but Penang reels you in with its unparalleled foodie paradise. After three weeks we are still finding and enjoying new delights. Today’s focus is on one topic: nasi kandar. This northern Malaysia take on Indian food is not to be missed, if you like richly textured, flavorful dishes.

Through our membership in Servas we met up with a great local guy named Tommy and his fiance Cecilia, who spent several hours showing us around George Town, the historic district of the island of Penang. A major highlight was an impressive mid-afternoon meal at Deen Maju Nasi Kandar. The restaurant opens at 2:30 PM, and long before that the locals who are in-the-know start lining up for their turn at the food counter.

There are 2 restaurants in Penang that get this kind of adulation: Deen Maju, and a great Chinese restaurant named Tek Sen. Tommy’s mom Jennifer and friend Leena took us to Tek Sen on another day, so I have to tell you that this family treated us like royalty. I have no problem standing in line for great food, and you know we were richly rewarded for waiting.

Lined up for 40 minutes at Deen Maju Nasi Kandar

When you get to the server he will prepare a plate of rice and then pile it up with the foods of your choosing. Without Tommy’s help this would have been a daunting task for us, since we didn’t know anything about this food. In our later attempts at other nasi kandar places we’ve found that we could ask for our new favorite items and/or ask the server to assemble “a variety of things”. Tommy picked a plate full of winning choices for us. The rice was then laden with a variety of curry sauces that played nice together on our palates.

Fried chicken, squid roe, okra and other nasi kandar dishes

Okra is called “lady fingers”, and it’s not slimy like okra back home. The seeds have a nice little pop texture to them.

Nasi kandar choices including fried fish, and mutton curry

The most unusual thing on the plate was squid roe. These small packets of squid eggs were not what I expected. In flavor and texture they were very mild, very much like spaetzle dumplings. There wasn’t even a hint of fishiness. I’ve since ordered them again, I like them that much.

Fried chicken; squid roe curry; and flavored rice with various sauces

In our later visits to other nasi kandar restaurants we learned that we should point out a chicken dish (fried, or curried), some other dish (fish, squid, squid roe, or mutton/goat/lamb), and a veggie, and ask for “kuah campur” to get the variety of splashes of curry sauces. Prices are generally not posted in advance, and the server totals up a number and writes it on a piece of paper. The total runs around 10 to 18 ringgits per plate ($2.50-$4.50), with the higher cost applied if any shellfish, squid or squid roe is requested. The one prawn I have had was amazing, so I don’t mind paying for it. If you let the server select your meal you’ll want to specify the meats if the cost is any concern to you. Then you order your drinks and that gets added to the paper. (Mango juice is my favorite.) After you eat you present your paper at the register and pay for your meal.

Fried chicken; cabbage; squid; mutton; and squid roe atop seasoned rice

After this big meal we went sightseeing and then stopped at a renowned dessert cart, Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul. We shared two shaved-ice treats. Who knew that corn and kidney beans went so well with sweet treats?

Ice kacang from Penang Road Teochew Chendul

The green “noodles” were startling, but it turns out they’re extruded sweet jelly treats.

At the end of the afternoon we were fully stuffed with amazing food, and it was time to go rest up. After all, more good eats were waiting for us out there in Penang.

Escape to Da Lat, Vietnam

Vietnam is a charming country with an amazing variety of landscapes and cityscapes. Most of it is tropical, and crowded with motorbikes (mostly scooters) and buses and pedestrians. When you want a mountain getaway on the south end of Vietnam you go to Da Lat. The French planned out this hideaway, and its Swiss/French ambience is still apparent.

Temples are not as numerous here as in other Asian locales, but some of them are beautifully situated among these hills.

Clever, patient topiary work at Trúc Lâm Temple

view from the overhead tram at Trúc Lâm Temple

While it is known as “City of eternal spring”, many also call it the “City of flowers”, not solely because of the flower-strewn avenues, but also since it is a major source for florists in Vietnam and overseas as well. The Da Lat Flower Park is a popular site for strolling (and taking selfies). There you will find an associated reference to the only well-known wine of Vietnam. If you go I recommend you replicate this photo, using your own model of course.

If you spend any time in southern Vietnam you will eventually hear of the Easy Rider groups. Your personal driver sets you on the back of his motorcycle and then you’re off to visit the countryside, up and down the mountain roads. Our trip lasted 6 hours, and included 9 stops to see sights and learn about the local life. It’s an exhilarating ride, and once we had done it we were jonesing to do another one.

Harvested flowers preparing for shipment

At a local rice wine manufacturer we pulled samples of hard liquor straight from the spigot as it underwent distilling processes.

Sampling the distilled rice wine from the spigot

We visited a small silk factory where the entire cycle from caterpillar to silk scarf was on view within the site.

Live silkworm with a female and male cocoon (males are bigger)

Soaking the silk cocoons in hot water to unwind the threads

Regrettably, the silkworms are killed in the process.

Dead silkworms are tasty with lemongrass

Nearby we visited a beautiful Chinese Buddhist pagoda. The Budai loomed large over the hillside. His nickname is Laughing Buddha, although he is no relation to Gautama Buddha.

Laughing Buddha at at Linh An Pagoda, Da Lat

Near the end of our trip we toured the Me Linh Coffee Garden, to observe the production of “weasel coffee” (as it’s called in Vietnam), AKA civet coffee. Or, as our guide called it, sh*t coffee. Here the pampered but caged “pets” dine on a never-ending supply of coffee berries, and then (ahem) produce coffee beans out the other end. It’s one of the most expensive coffees in the world, and if you buy it elsewhere it may well be faked. Only here at the source can you be reasonably assured that you’re getting the real thing.

Civet cat or weasel arranges to take a snooze (Me Linh Coffee Garden)

At this farm they grow three varieties of beans for the weasels: Moka, Cherry, and Arabica. You can buy a cup of coffee for $2.60 US, or get the roasted beans for $80 a pound (400,000 VND per 100 grams). If the beans are sourced in the wild and then exported for sale they go for about $180 a pound. Many beans don’t get processed by the weasels, so you can also buy those here at a very reduced price.

We decided to try the Moka and Cherry, after they persuaded us that the Arabica would taste more sour. The Moka was their most popular product, but we found it bitter and we preferred the Cherry. It tasted rich and delicious with fresh whole milk and a light dusting of sugar. The lovely view of the valley enhanced the experience.

Civet cat or weasel coffee at Me Linh Coffee Garden, Da Lat

We lingered there enjoying the springtime air, as the rain clouds held at bay. I admired a couples’ little puppy, and to my surprise the man plopped the little pup right into my arms. It nuzzled against me and drooped its eyelids, and I fell in love with this place.

Someone handed me this dog and now I won’t give it back

Tet season in Nha Trang, Vietnam

We spent a full month in Nha Trang, enjoying the sea breezes, beaches, and abundant variety of restaurants. During our stay we were able to enjoy the Tet celebrations (Vietnamese New Year). Tet disrupts daily life and travel in Vietnam, but we were pleased to find that it was an enriching and rewarding time to be here.

In much of Vietnam Tet is a slack time in the life cycle of the farming communities, where 60% of the citizens are employed. It’s a time of renewal: fresh paint, new decor, and paying off all debts, a clean sweep for the coming year.

For a couple of weeks preceding Tet pop-up shops appear on the sidewalks along a busy street. Large potted trees full of flowers or fruit are a very popular item, and the trucks sit nearby with a crane onboard, ready to lift a tree onto the back of a motorbike, or go deliver a tree to a home.

Carrying off kumquat fruit trees on motorbikes

Pomelo trees with real fruit still attached

Large blooming daisy planters from the countryside

Large decorative items are also a big-purchase item for the holiday, to adorn the buyer’s place for the long term. A home may have one or two of these items in the courtyard or foyer. Hotels and businesses often have more-extravagant versions.

Elaborate stone feng shui piece for sale

These larger plants and artwork that can be lifted by two people cost about $150 (3 million dong) and upwards. The huge pieces will of course cost much more.

I also enjoyed seeing the smaller pieces for sale, with ingenious ways of introducing elements of springtime and wishes for good luck and prosperity.

Coconuts pressed into decorative shapes (Year of the Rooster)

Artificial peach flowers attached to branches

Decorative hangings, about 40 cents each

Artificial flowers glued or wired onto “trees”

One week before Tet the city went silent, as the pervasive building boom took a rest. All of the construction workers retreated to their hometowns, mostly north of Nha Trang. On Tet Eve most but not all shops shut down for the upcoming 5 days, and quiet celebrations began in homes all around town. Rich snacks were prepared, and visiting time began. Small envelopes of “lucky money” were assembled for the children. There were no fireworks this year, out of respect for the locals who recently were killed in floods and landslides. Instead, the city was unusually peaceful.

Envelopes for Lucky Money (I bought some)

Dried fruits, candies and nuts for Tet snacking

Golden and green watermelons, traditional for Tet

As always, the ancestors were honored and remembered at this special time.

Ceremonial display of food and drink in a doorway

Selling spirit paper goods to be burned during Tet

Traditionally you make specific visits as follows: on day 1 you visit father’s family; day 2, mother’s family, day 3, your teachers (who are especially honored in this culture); and days 4 and 5, your friends. In reality, many people keep days 1-3 for family, and then go on vacation from day 4 until the end of the next weekend. The beach was serene on days 1-3, but would soon be jam-packed with visitors from Saigon and China. We enjoyed being observers for Tet, especially during these early days.

The Silver Temples of Chiang Mai

Hidden away in unassuming side streets you may chance upon two extraordinary “silver” temples gleaming in the sun: Wat Sri Suphan, and nearby, Wat Muen San. Starting at Sri Suphan, you can observe the incredibly laborious work that goes into hand-forming the tin alloy sheets into detailed art. If you have time you can make a simple bracelet, though you must set aside 3 hours for even this tiny piece.

Early stages of making a ceremonial panel in tin

Early stages of a ceremonial panel; stretching the metal and then adding detail

Intermediate stage, making a ceremonial panel in tin

A layer of molten rubber is applied to the back, to allow for gradual stretching of the tin as it is hammered from the backside.

Melting rubber for a backboard, used in hammering tin

As you wander the temple grounds you will often come across one of the ever-present temple dogs.

If you’re in a hurry you can get through the temple grounds in a half hour. However, the few other visitors and I walked in slow motion, meditating on the beauty of the handwork. Here I find a sense of peace that is usually missing in our daily lives.

Some of the artwork is enhanced with actual silver or gold.

The temple is adjacent to a children’s school, and the students were at play on the grounds. Two girls slipped away from the raucous crowd of soccer players, and played in a ceremonial cart.

Schoolgirls at play on a ceremonial float in storage, Wat Sri Suphan

It took us a little searching to find Wat Muen San, and when we arrived we found that we were the only people there except for a trio of brick masons at work. Here was further beauty, worthy of an art gallery.

Walking down the back lanes and visiting these two temples made for a serene half-day of sightseeing. I am grateful to the unsung artists for their dedication to their calling.

Hoi An, the old and new

When we planned our trip to Vietnam I wasn’t sure which cities to visit. Hanoi and Saigon are the big-name cities, but for a beautiful experience of the real Vietnam, the number one place to go is Hoi An. Its Ancient Town section is yet another stop at a UNESCO World Heritage Site; there are 8 in Vietnam.

Most of the silk lanterns made in Vietnam are made right here. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are also hand-painted.

The city is famous for its Vietnamese lantern makers

The tailors of Hoi An are legendary, and the streets are full of options. Our esteemed tour group, Intrepid Travel, recommended Blue Eye Tailors for mid-range prices, or A Dong Silk Tailors, the shop which fitted up the guys on the episode of Top Gear- Vietnam. If you can envision an item, pull up an image from the Internet or find one in their books, they will measure you up and construct the item in one day. Silk, cotton blend or leather items are popular.

Hoi An’s famous tailors use garish clothes to draw attention

Hoi An’s Ancient Town is a well-preserved example of early port cities along the seacoast.

Brides and grooms come to Hoi An for unique photos

Here and in other places in southeast Asia you can take cooking classes. We were fortunate to be tutored by Chef Hai, who was a strict but educational taskmaster.

Cooking class with the owner at Green Mango

On the second day we elected to go exploring on our own. The hotel staff pointed out a Buddhist pagoda very close by, and as it turned out we were the only tourists there among a very small staff of monks. The religious sites here in Asia are often very beautiful, and here we strolled in peaceful silence, enjoying the ambience of this special place.

Lady Buddha, Quan Am, with a cleansing vase

Details from a garden wall at the pagoda

Two nights here was not enough, and we didn’t even get to see the beaches. I would love to return here for more exploration.