January 2017 – Boomer Away

The Silver Temples of Chiang Mai

Hidden away in unassuming side streets you may chance upon two extraordinary “silver” temples gleaming in the sun: Wat Sri Suphan, and nearby, Wat Muen San. Starting at Sri Suphan, you can observe the incredibly laborious work that goes into hand-forming the tin alloy sheets into detailed art. If you have time you can make a simple bracelet, though you must set aside 3 hours for even this tiny piece.

Early stages of making a ceremonial panel in tin

Early stages of a ceremonial panel; stretching the metal and then adding detail

Intermediate stage, making a ceremonial panel in tin

A layer of molten rubber is applied to the back, to allow for gradual stretching of the tin as it is hammered from the backside.

Melting rubber for a backboard, used in hammering tin

As you wander the temple grounds you will often come across one of the ever-present temple dogs.

If you’re in a hurry you can get through the temple grounds in a half hour. However, the few other visitors and I walked in slow motion, meditating on the beauty of the handwork. Here I find a sense of peace that is usually missing in our daily lives.

Some of the artwork is enhanced with actual silver or gold.

The temple is adjacent to a children’s school, and the students were at play on the grounds. Two girls slipped away from the raucous crowd of soccer players, and played in a ceremonial cart.

Schoolgirls at play on a ceremonial float in storage, Wat Sri Suphan

It took us a little searching to find Wat Muen San, and when we arrived we found that we were the only people there except for a trio of brick masons at work. Here was further beauty, worthy of an art gallery.

Walking down the back lanes and visiting these two temples made for a serene half-day of sightseeing. I am grateful to the unsung artists for their dedication to their calling.

Hoi An, the old and new

When we planned our trip to Vietnam I wasn’t sure which cities to visit. Hanoi and Saigon are the big-name cities, but for a beautiful experience of the real Vietnam, the number one place to go is Hoi An. Its Ancient Town section is yet another stop at a UNESCO World Heritage Site; there are 8 in Vietnam.

Most of the silk lanterns made in Vietnam are made right here. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are also hand-painted.

The city is famous for its Vietnamese lantern makers

The tailors of Hoi An are legendary, and the streets are full of options. Our esteemed tour group, Intrepid Travel, recommended Blue Eye Tailors for mid-range prices, or A Dong Silk Tailors, the shop which fitted up the guys on the episode of Top Gear- Vietnam. If you can envision an item, pull up an image from the Internet or find one in their books, they will measure you up and construct the item in one day. Silk, cotton blend or leather items are popular.

Hoi An’s famous tailors use garish clothes to draw attention

Hoi An’s Ancient Town is a well-preserved example of early port cities along the seacoast.

Brides and grooms come to Hoi An for unique photos

Here and in other places in southeast Asia you can take cooking classes. We were fortunate to be tutored by Chef Hai, who was a strict but educational taskmaster.

Cooking class with the owner at Green Mango

On the second day we elected to go exploring on our own. The hotel staff pointed out a Buddhist pagoda very close by, and as it turned out we were the only tourists there among a very small staff of monks. The religious sites here in Asia are often very beautiful, and here we strolled in peaceful silence, enjoying the ambience of this special place.

Lady Buddha, Quan Am, with a cleansing vase

Details from a garden wall at the pagoda

Two nights here was not enough, and we didn’t even get to see the beaches. I would love to return here for more exploration.

Paradise Cave

Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a very recent addition to the must-see places in Vietnam. In 2005 a local man was searching the mountainside for medicinal herbs and discovered Paradise Cave, which stretches for 31 kilometers (19 miles) below the mountain. Opened to the public in 2010, tourists generally get to see the first kilometer, with further depths restricted to more serious spelunkers.

Perspective shot showing just part of the distance

The stalactite fell over, and became part of another

The beauty of Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, holds thousands of karst mountains jutting out of the sea. Most visitors get there via a 4-hour bus ride from Hanoi, or a tour boat from China. It’s best to spend a night on board a yacht anchored far out in the bays so you can soak up the incredible views. Here is a brief tribute to this stunning experience.

Our yacht left harbor with our band of 10 travelers plus a crew of 6. There was space for 20 guests, so we had plenty of room in the cabins, each with an ensuite bathroom.

Fishermen live virtually full-time on their boats, rafted together in a protected bay. They nap and often party by day, then fish at night, drawing in schools of squid and fish with powerful spotlights.

Some of the islands hold caves where you can climb and explore. It’s not for the claustrophobic. Humans lived in these caves in prehistoric times, leaving behind deep layers of snail shells from their dinners.

After a long cruise we reached our day’s destination. As we sat at anchor for the night I enjoyed watching the kayaks glide by.

Old-fashioned fishing boats were juxtaposed against modern kayaks.

Yachts sit in a sheltered bay as the shadows deepen into night.

We had a stellar dinner with our tour group, followed by a round of karaoke in the main cabin. Too soon, it was time to bed down in our queen size cabin. I barely felt the waves on the becalmed ocean.

In the morning we awakened to the sound of seabirds.

On a quiet deck we enjoyed our coffee and reflected on the beautiful surroundings.